Back in Borneo

I haven't been to Borneo since 2007, but this year met up with my travel friends in Kota Kinabalu. Right now we're staying on an island north of KK and will be heading to Sandakan in a few days before bouncing over to Brunei; last time I was here I skipped visiting Bandar Seri Bagawan and have regretted it since.

Much has changed since last I was here. There are way more Chinese and Korean tourists. There is more litter. It is still affordable, though, and the scenery is absolutely gorgeous. The food is amazing, as usual. The fusion of cultures that is Malaysia does not disappoint. 

I'm coming from Phoenix and am accustomed to heat but the humidity here is really something. Whoof. 

The group I've met up with here is composed of some of my very best friends. We met on a boat about 8 years ago and have remained very close since. I'm based in the US and the remainder are from England and Australia, so it would be difficult to arrange three farther-apart places. Nevertheless, we have semi-frequent visits with each other and, every couple years, have a big trip where we all get together. We're already working on planning the next one; it looks like either Madagascar or Mongolia. 

The world is awesome and I am hugely fortunate to be able to have seen a bit of it. Borneo remains a great place to visit. 

And with that, fighting lizards. 

Durian still smells like farts. 

Mt. Kinabalu. The summit is approximately 13,500 feet. Last time I was here (2007) I climbed it and my legs were just thrashed. It sure sucked that I was staying in a hostel on the third floor of the building and there was no elevator. 

Whoof. We're 9 hours into what should have been a 6-hour drive across the island, with at least 2 left to go. 

Sounds like a great trip!  I've traveled a good bit in Malaysia on the mainland and surrounds, but Borneo is on my list.   

Thanks for letting us tag along! Kinda seeing some of the same vibes as Bourdain's two visits that it was definitely an area that is constantly evolving to a modern world but has plenty of local culture remaining.

Sounds like a very cool trip!

I'm interested in everything you have to say. Ever since reading Eric Hansens book about trekking across, (As well as the usual National Geographic articles), the place has held much allure.

It's really neat to come back after 18 years. Borneo made a huge impression on my wife and me when we were here last. 

Since last time I was on this island I didn't have a chance to make it to Brunei, I made that a priority on this trip. Brunei is wildly different to Malaysia! Obviously it's a lot more prosperous, but it feels very different. Brunei feels more like central Morocco (maybe Rabat and the surrounding area?) transported to the equator, to be honest. Outside the capital of Bandar Seri Begawan, it still feels a bit North African. That is of course due largely to the Arabic signage, mosques, and Islamic architecture. Still, it's quite striking. 

Some hairless jerk had to go and invent money. Some hairless jerk like YOU! Sixty-five cents for a candy bar!? What are you, NUTS!?!?

(Sorry if this is too obscure a reference to Borneo)

Well, I'm back in the US. 

Some thoughts:

Everywhere is hot and humid all the time. Kinabatangan was particularly moist, being weltands. On the other hand, orangutans! ...!!!

Borneo is pretty neat in general. I quite like Malaysia. 

I think I ate my bodyweight in prawns. 

I'd take a pass on Brunei again. I'm glad I visited and Ulu Temborang was brilliant, but that's just not enough to recommend a specific visit. The adherence to Shariah law and the fact that the Sultan is an absolute monarch combined with the propaganda museums made me feel a bit skeeved out. Brunei wasn't bad (and, in fact, the night markets were quite good and the architecture was stunning) but I'd not be super keen on returning. This is especially true given that Brunei really isn't set up for tourism. 

Singapore is the shining city of tomorrow, for sure. Changi airport is *unbelievably awesome.* I love the commitment to renewable energy and green spaces. Still, though, Singapore felt a bit sterile: There just wasn't much wildlife around, and I barely even saw birds. When I visit a place I very often ask myself if I could see myself living there. With regards to Singapore the answer is a definitive "....eh, maybe." If I were making a nice grip of Singaporean simoleans, sure. However, I'd have to give up virtually all of my hobbies. Private car ownership is wildly cost-prohibitive (and there aren't any tracks), motorcycling would be "meh" at best, there's no way I could have a workshop, rock climbing would very much be a no-go as there are no rocks around to climb, and the big one? Strength training? It would be very hard to do what I like to do with a paucity of strongman gyms around. So, maybe, but it wouldn't be my first choice. 

It was so, so hot and humid. I come from Phoenix and am accustomed to heat, but the humidity really smacked my face on this trip. I just felt sticky all the time!

You so accurately described SG. It's the perfect business hub cleverly disguised as a country. I like to see my friends there, Stuff my face at the Hawker stands and the other great food there,  and go to the F1 race with them but I'm also happy to leave as well.

It would take away a lot of the things I'd like to do as well to live there. 

My buddy paid $100K USD for a new Camry. You also have to have permits and a certified parking spot too. Craziness.