Broken bolt removal tips

Broke a starter bolt in the bell housing. Snapped head right off. 
Can't use a torch where I am.

tried the soaking of penetrating oil, vise grip, as well as the double nut method.to no avail.

thinking about using a heat induction tool, coupled with a bolt extractor.

Any recommendations on what brand and type of tools to use?

tips and step by step instructions would be much appreciated.

 Thank you 

I am of the "weld a nut on it " school of bolt removal if it is at all possible. Even when broke below the surface in a cast iron item, it works most of the time.

If you have the tool, it certainly looks like the induction tool would be worth trying. Hopefully there is enough bolt left to work with the tool.

In a confined space with no other options I would clamp on a set of vice grips and just keep tapping them back and forth with a hammer until the damn bolt surrendered. I also have a small pipe wrench that comes in handy for these kind of situations.  It can take a while and it can look like you are getting nowhere, but eventually the back and forth action breaks the bond.

You can heat the stub of the bolt with induction heat, but an Oxy-Acetyelene torch works well.  Also a MAP gas torch. Even a propane torch will work if you are very patient.

The heat makes the bolt expand, but it can only expand length-wise because of the surrounding cast iron.  Then when it cools, it cools in all directions, including slightly smaller in diameter.  As it cools, that is a good time to hit it with penetrant, oil, wax, crayon, chapstick, what-have-you.

Welding a nut on the end also introduces heat to the bolt alone (see above), but gives you something to grip.  It often takes a few re-welds with new nuts until the heat and weld work well enough to crack it loose.  TIG is better if you can, since you can linger on the "stud" with pin-point precision, but not everyone has a TIG.  MIG works - turn the heat up.

Beating on the end of the bolt whilst applying pressure with a wrench works well, as does hammering the area around the bolt (air hammers are nice for this).

When you're done and putting it back together - use some sort of Never-Sieze so the next guy doesn't have to go through this.  The next guy might be you.  

In reply to SkinnyG :

I'm going to second the wax application. Have yet to have one not come loose.

Get it a dull cherry red at least.  Shove a crayon into it.  Make sure you keep enough wax on it that it doesn't boil away.

Let it cool then get to work

In reply to SkinnyG :

Thanks for the reply. Since it's a tight area, and somewhat oily down there , a torch is not an option. 
 

so if I understand correctly , if I use the induction tool, let it cool a little bit, then spray with penetrating oil, when it's cooler to the touch, try either the double bolt method, vise grips, or broken stud extractor?

is it advisable to use something like this?

should I attempt this before I go the heat induction tool route? Or am I risking making it worse? Thanks 

Induction heat and wax is my vote.

In reply to MorrisDeBuque :

If the bolt head that was part of the bolt isn't strong enough to turn it, anything that mechanically grips the bolt won't turn it.  Those extractors may work but only with heat on the part.

SkinnyG covered everything I was going to say re: how heat helps.  BUT you will probably find that it's stuck because of damaged threads, and the chance is high that you will have to grind the face flat, drill it out, and Heli-Coil it.  You may get lucky but bolts that break from trying to remove them are the least likely to come out.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

Thanks for the reply.

if I get it cherry red, with the heat induction tool, then how long should I wait (cool off) to either use:

1) a crayon 

2) penetrating oil . 

i don't want to start a fire under there. As I have been spraying penetrating oil on the area for the pas t few weeks.

Oh no, if you get it hot, try to remove it THEN.  Heat is your friend.  Get it hot and try to move it when it's hot.  You may have to heat it multiple times because it may only turn when hot.

Cherry red may be too cool, bright orange is the happy place.  The penetrating oil will smoke off before it catches fire.  Even if you were using torches and not an induction tool, it usually just boils away before it ignites and even if it does ignite, it burns away fast.  Still, it may not be a bad idea to have some way of extinguishing it just in case.  I usually just blow it out like birthday cake candles, but other means may be necessary if you really flooded the surrounding area.

Weld a nut onto that stub real well. Then heat it and let it cool. Spray with pentrant....

Penetrating oil will smoke and boil off. You're not going to start a fire from having doused it liberally in penetrating oil.

I often times hold the torch in one hand and the penetrating oil in the other and alternate getting it hot then dousing it cool with penetrant. Repeat as needed. The heating allows the penetrating oil to wick into the area. It's just smokes when you get it too hot.

Oh, and remember, when you get it mega hot, that heat will transfer to your removal tools, so work quick. 

MorrisDeBuque said:

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

Thanks for the reply.

if I get it cherry red, with the heat induction tool, then how long should I wait (cool off) to either use:

1) a crayon 

2) penetrating oil . 

i don't want to start a fire under there. As I have been spraying penetrating oil on the area for the pas t few weeks.

Immediately. While it is red.  I have had best luck when the wax spontaneously combusts solely from the heat of the bolt.

Penetrating oil that has been sitting isnt volatile enough to catch your car on fire. I doubt you could light it if its just sitting there.

In any case, whenever you work with heat you need to have an extinguisher and possibly a hose nearby