The quick answers to quick questions thread

RevRico said:

Wow, that's literally all the information in the modem, I don't know why or what but I was expecting more. 

My first thought seeing those levels was "That's pretty."  You should have no issues as long as you use quality cable.  I used to tell people that used crappy stuff to hit a big gas station around lunch time.  If you see a cable tech offer them $5 for a jumper and barrel.

I see why they are so nice.  They are using low freq for the forward path.  It's smart.  I always wondered why we used such high freq especially after we changed over to full digital signal.

In reply to Stampie :

Sweet. That should make the next couple weeks a little easier. 

Does anyone know what happened to Edd China's YouTube channel? I just noticed it hadn't popped up in my feed, and confirmed there has been no new content in 5 months.  

Are all SBC starters the same?  Anything I need to look for in gear reduction starters?

In reply to Mr_Asa :

They are not all the same, old school ones are not gear reduction, factory gear reductions came about in the mid 90s IIRC. It also depends on how many teeth are on your flexplate flywheel. Common is 153 or 168

In reply to budget_bandit :

Damnit.

This is, as best I can tell, a GM crate engine, Gen II, with a 4L80E transmission. I'll have to get some pictures and see if I can decipher anything about the starter.

I am pretty sure that you will need a starter for a 168 tooth, LT1/LT4 had 168 tooth flywheels.

How come when I hear a truck with squeeky leaf springs it's 9 out of 10 a Ford?

Stampie said:

How come when I hear a truck with squeeky leaf springs it's 9 out of 10 a Ford?

Because 9 out of 10 old Ford trucks are still on the road?  

In reply to 1988RedT2 :

While I expected that answer this would contradict that statement.

https://logitydispatch.com/blog/longest-lasting-trucks-on-the-road/

In reply to Stampie :

The Ram 3500 is just the shipping container for the Cummins swap kit.

In reply to ShawnG :

I don't disagree.  

If you built a faraday cage around a microwave, would it explode or would it finally stop interfering with Bluetooth and Wi-Fi?

In reply to RevRico :

Your microwave already has a Faraday cage built in.  That's why the window has the little holes like a screen.  If it's interfering with stuff then it's bad.

Are backing nuts for self tapping screws a thing?

I have #14x1 1/4" self tapping screws that I'm attempting to install some heavy rubber mudflaps with. The screws are being screwed into the sheet metal fender lip. I've already had one screw pull out.

I don't want to rivet the mudflaps on. 

What's the solution? Nylon nuts? Pal nuts?

In reply to stanger_mussle (Supported by GRM undergarments) :

Get a 1/4 thick strip of aluminum (or whatever thickness is handy and unlikely to strip out), and drill your self tappers through that.

Any thoughts on how to test a heater core that isn't connected? 

Presumably there's a leak in it, that's why it got disconnected, but with the previous owner of this hooptie, who TF knows

TheRyGuy said:

In reply to stanger_mussle (Supported by GRM undergarments) :

Get a 1/4 thick strip of aluminum (or whatever thickness is handy and unlikely to strip out), and drill your self tappers through that.

I like this.  Or a backing strip of whatever, with riv-nuts in the backing strip

In reply to Mr_Asa :

Put a rubber stopper in each end. make a fitting that attaches to a piece of brake hard line that is pushed through one stopper. Put a little air pressure in there, hold it under water and see if anything bubbles.

ShawnG said:

In reply to Mr_Asa :

Put a rubber stopper in each end. make a fitting that attaches to a piece of brake hard line that is pushed through one stopper. Put a little air pressure in there, hold it under water and see if anything bubbles.

Still in the vehicle, reported 4hr removal time.

I was thinking cobble together some hose lengths and adapters and eventually get to an inline radiator cap, then use that to pressure test.
Almost have to have fluid in it to properly test, I would think

I would bet money it has a hole in it.

In reply to Mr_Asa :

You could do the same air test in place but treat it more as a leak down test and make sure your test setup isn't the leak. 

This is where I would use compressed air to blow all the water out, and connect up a smoke machine with a flowmeter.  No flow, no baby oil smell in the cabin, it's good to go.

This may only be helpful inasmuch as it may give one some ideas.

(Also? Smoking an engine to check for oil leaks BEFORE dropping it into a car? Game changer!)

1988RedT2 said:

I would bet money it has a hole in it.

Oh, same.  100%.  Would rather spend 20-30 minutes checking first, though.

Pete. (l33t FS) said:

 

(Also? Smoking an engine to check for oil leaks BEFORE dropping it into a car? Game changer!)

Oh yeah.  Old timey engines with a two piece rear seal, after reinstalling the pan but  before hanging all the bits back on the suspension and buttoning stuff up?  Best thing ever.