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Photograph by Perry Bennett
1. Tires cooling off too much between autocross runs? Tire blankets are a great way to keep heat in.
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Photograph by Andy Hollis
2. Having a hard time getting heat into your tires? When rules allow, electric blankets are a great way to start a session with optimal grip. In this case, the rear tires of our CRX have trouble coming up to temp compared to the fronts, so we preheat the rears only.
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Photograph by Perry Bennett
3. Too much heat? Spraying a tire can get out some of the surface heat. The water doesn’t have to be cold, as the drying of the water is what extracts the heat.
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Photograph by Andy Hollis
4. Does the surface of your tires appear as if the rubber is rolling off? This is graining, and it’s caused by localized overheating of the surface of the tread. It tends to happen under high-energy combined loading situations like trail braking, and it’s exacerbated by sliding the tire. Once this graining phase appears, the tire will lose pace temporarily until it’s worn away. You may have seen this in Formula 1.
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Photograph by Andy Hollis
5. Soft-compound treaded tires at full depth will often bevel the center rib as they wear. This comes from the tall tread block bending over into the adjacent void under cornering loads–like a pencil eraser. It does not hurt performance, and the wear will eventually flatten out again as the block becomes shorter. Tires that are shaved will not exhibit this trait.
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Photograph by Andy Hollis
6. Delamination occurs when large blocks of tread separate from the belted carcass. This is caused by overheating at the very core of the tire. Tires that are run hard at full depth for long periods of time, particularly if underinflated, accumulate enough heat for the tread to be ripped off. Suboptimal alignment can also cause localized overheating to one side of the tire or the other with similar results.
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Photograph by Andy Hollis
7. If class rules restrict you to non-optimal alignments, camber wear can be a factor in tire life. Rotation from front to rear can extend the service life, as can flipping the tire on its rim. Most asymmetric tread designs can be successfully flipped inside out as the internal carcass is symmetric. Note that performance will suffer during the time it takes the tire to wear back in for its new position on the vehicle.
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Photograph by Perry Bennett
8. When tires wear, they release bits of sticky rubber, some of which adhere to the track surface, with larger bits moving just off the racing line. Dubbed OPR–Other People’s Rubber–it will get picked up by subsequent cars, eventually building up to form large blobs on their tires. Grip and predictability are dramatically reduced, especially if the blobs are allowed to remain for subsequent sessions. An oscillating tool can be used to remove the coating from a tire by hand, though caution must be taken not to damage the tire’s tread surface. Pro racing teams use a hot knife tool to similar effect.
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Photograph by Driftpoint Media
9. For full wet use, the Continental ExtremeContact Sport 02 and Michelin Pilot Sport 4S have proven to be the go-to solutions for tremendous grip in any amount of water at any speed. When speeds are lower and there’s less water on the surface, we’ve found success with both the Bridgestone RE-71RS and Yokohama A052 in full-tread form. With high amounts of silica in their rubber compounds, wet grip is very high and there’s enough void in their tread designs to evacuate reasonable amounts of water. They are the street tire equivalent of Intermediate racing slicks.
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Photograph by Andy Hollis
10. You can also dial in the heat management and feel of the tire with air pressure. The more air, the crisper the tire’s response as it increases the spring rate–yes, tires are undamped springs. That additional air will also better support the carcass, generating less heat from inside. 200tw tires exhibit a bell curve of pace versus pressure, typically being just as quick across a 4-6 psi range of pressures. Where you decide to run within that range has implications on feel and heat. A pyrometer can be helpful, but doing pressure sweeps on a skidpad with a stopwatch and a consistent driver is the gold standard to determine this range.

