Fixed headlight wiring and new headlight.
Colors are backwards compared to my Hanes manual. Unless we want to unflash to pass
Cut back frame rails as part of my chrome bumper conversion
Question Paint the lower valence yellow (rustoleum lemongrass or sun yellow )or leave it black. both are an ok match for the awful paint. Repaint is not in this years plan
In reply to scooterfrog :
Okay so I spray bombed the lower valance with Rust-Oleum Sun yellow which is not a bad match for what I have. Then I got that chrome bumper on and I have to say who thought rubber bumpers was a good idea.
My 22-year-old Polisci major daughter with no interest in cars said that 75 lb bumpers on both ends of the car seems like a really bad idea for something powered by hamsters.
I also think I finally got all the vacuum leaks fixed. It starts right up idles around 900 which is 800 plus or minus 100 like spec.
Found a broken exhaust hanger
Repast another glass fuse with modern inline fuses 15 amp. I think I have one glass fuse left. My big concern is that if they ever blow when I'm out I'll never be able to find a replacement.
Lastly, freed up the parking brake handle and the parking brakes in the drum. One step closer to inspection
slow weekend mothers day
cleaned up wiring. all the wires a brown until you wash off the dirt
replacement hazard sw arrived horray it works
muffler hanger
unstuck the parking brake
mounted the front bumper
painted the lower grill valence yellow (ish) and put the silly 76 grill in and treated the opening to nice black paint. eventually i will get a grill
next:
remount front turn signals
still reverse and brake lights
i think i got all the vacuum leaks it will idle at 800 +/-. first start needs a bit of cranking (maybe a bit of choke would help), but after the fist start it turns over immedeately
i have not done plugs wire cap, coil or set the timing yet.
my valve cover breather to carb is now gone I plugged the big port on the carb and got a little blue vent breather for the valve cover. and the gulp valve plug on the manifold needed a rubber gasket one. tool box drawer liner makes nice rubber gaskets for non critical spots.
Nice progress on this!
Carburetors are my favorite type of voodoo.
I bet when you get the ignition tuned up it will be a whole new beastie...
Slow weekend. gaduation from college for my daughter
revers wires, lights / switches.
the switch is bad, as is the wire to the switch, as is the wire from the switches and the grounds . no lights when positive is applied to the green with brown tracer. no voltage on the green
i added new grounds to the revers lamps, and the lamps both light when i take power from the trunk lid
I will try and clean the switch, i made the access hole fo th swithce begger s now i dont need to drop the trans to change the sw. (some prior owner made a hole, but it was too small)
need a block off plate for hole in tunnel. sheet metal or plastic ( from a laundry detergent bottle) its a 2 inch circle
its not hard, it just take a lot of time. i expected to need to rewire the reverse lights because there was a random wire to a random dash switch to the trunk, and the reverse lights were disconnected from any harness. so now its just confirmed.
oh and we are down to 3 potential names.
Ordered a new reverse sw and brake switch
Brake switch wires are good
Rewired reverse lights and wire to switch and from switch.
Cleaned up all wires in trunk.
Added auxiliary fuse box and relay ignition switched power
Added /base plastic bushing on the shifter so the shifter stays in when going into reverse. Pain in the ass shifter assembly is not service able and nla. Proud of this one ill write it up on the mgexp board
Once i get the switches. I can add the plates mirrors and wipers and try to pass inspection. Woo hoo.
Mirrors wont go into the doors with supplied screws. the inserts are stripped out. i will use self tappers ump a half inch higher. base will cover old holes.
Need to remove driver seat and fix recliner... this has one of the few rounded stuck nuts and bolts i have encountered so far.
Right now i am $995 including tools required .
where can find the challenge accounting rules. im am trying to capture everything but i cannot
my wife won't let me recoup costs
i if buy
well I found the challenge rules it wasn't hard. i think the biggest difference is how shop supplies are calculated, shipping is included and there are materials that don't count towards the price. oh my swmbo won't let me recoup
all stitched up slow week, but
got the mirrors on,
disassembled the driver seat,
car is now inspectable (*as in i aware of nothing that would fail it)
i was told the brakes were recent and fluids were recent, oil didn't look good and coolant looked good.
today i finished reworking the passenger seat
i don't care if anyone reads this. its nice to have a place to log it,
A lot of us just follow along and watch the shenanigans.
No advice for the budget, but it sure looks like you're making good progress!
Recon1342 said:A lot of us just follow along and watch the shenanigans.
No advice for the budget, but it sure looks like you're making good progress!
definitely! brings back memories of Spridgets I had ... longer ago than needs thinking about, thanks.
haven't often wanted another, but your original deal on the car would have been hard to pass up.
Recon1342 said:A lot of us just follow along and watch the shenanigans.
No advice for the budget, but it sure looks like you're making good progress!
Agreed, I love following projects like this. Plus I may have been shopping FBM for something similar from time to time...
Glad i'm not yelling into the void.
passenger seat is in. it was the last thing i did before surgery.
i just bought a grill and 3 of 4 surrounds on ebay for $129 shipped from the UK Chrome bumper conversion for <250
2 weeks ago i had my third corneal transplant. i had the first 2 30ish yeas ago, one failed in January i have been out of commission for 2 weeks
i know of nothing that will keep me from passing MA inspection. but i cannot drive for at least another week, an no one else in the house can drive a standard
must do soon.
I missed goal 1 (inspected July 4) I was ready, but could not get done with work in time (of day) to get it inspected the week of jun 22
Goal 2 is one autocross by November (end of season in Boston) i havent done ax since moved back to Boston 20 years ago. i was pretty active in Chicago (sts and DS (street tire) i think i need to be mostly not leaking for that.
In reply to scooterfrog :
I hope the surgery is successful and you can see well soon.
Sounds like your #2 goal is attainable with steady effort and progress 
im almost 4 weeks post surgery goign well
i have done 2 tiny things
battery hold down, i knew it was needed to autocross and i could do it form the top of the car.
and i was naughty .
put the car on jack stands and drained and filled the diff. it was low. after filling i put clean paper bag under the car to see if it would drip. it did. i could not get the drain plug in as much as i hoped to. the threads wer half good and half messed up. i tired to fix, clean, straighten them a but with a gentle hacksaw before putting them back in and filling.
It helped but was insufficient
is a cheap tap and die set worth having. or is it "buy once cry once"
ordered all new drain and fill for diff, oil pan and trans. I will try again.
scooterfrog said:i don't care if anyone reads this. its nice to have a place to log it,
My first car was a '72 Midget. I been watchin'.
scooterfrog said:...
is a cheap tap and die set worth having. or is it "buy once cry once"
...
depends on the cost+hassle of replacing the work piece. And the crying part often isn't that big for a single tap or die. McMaster-Carr pretty reliably sells good stuff, and in my experience the Century brand have been good values if you rather buy local.
My Chinese tap and die set did pretty well for general automotive repair (so mostly chasing threads) for three or four years until I left it in the shop space I had when I had to move out. For all I know it's still soldiering on somewhere...
If I was a machinist or fabricator I don't think I'd have had the same experience.
ok, cheap tap and dy to clean up threads
got grill and surrounds the top (hood piece came from another auction) so chrome bumpers, brackets and grill and round turn signals about 150. rubber bumper delete priceless.
i will probably not change the rear fenders. i will figure out how to fill the big front holes because my round turn signals are the right height but dont fill a rectangular space.
not sure if i will center them under the headlight or push towards the grill like in the picture
In reply to scooterfrog :
I like them pushed in towards the grill (as pictured). Bonus, it makes filling the hole simpler.
In reply to Indy - Guy :
thanks for the feedback my thinking as well.
If you want to fill the light hole, without metal and bodywork / paint, you could make a piece to fill the opening. A thin sheet of black plastic, delrin or similar, could just attach with some black trim screws. Mcmaster Carr has plastic like that. If fairly thin it will bend around the shape of the car.
Scooter, see if your club runs HCS. That's your best bet for a category to run in autocross if they still run it.
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