1 ... 4 5 6
ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter)
ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
11/4/25 7:02 p.m.

In reply to DarkMonohue :

Interesting; thanks for the insight!

Part of the problem/confusion is that there doesn't seem to be all-in-one factory service manuals for the Land Cruiser the way there are for Toyota cars...maybe because they are heavy-duty? In any case, there are chassis manuals that cover all bodystyles, wheelbases, and powertrains, and then there are engine family manuals that cover lots of different variants of engine and vehicle models using that family of engines. Imagine you have a *8 Corolla chassis manual that covers every Corolla on that platform for chassis but not engine, and a separate A-series engine manual that covers everything from a 3A-C to a 4A-G to a 7A-F.

The B family of engines dates way back, and mine is a 3B. The engine was substantially revised in 1988, often called the 3B-II, and apparently a lot changed. I know of B engine manuals dated 1977, 1980, 1988, and 1994. I have the '88 and '94 manuals, but I don't trust them 100% and I can't find the 1980 one, which is probably the most pertinent one for my engine.

Here's some pertinent interesting discussion: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/b-2b-3b-diesel-crankshaft-bolt-torque-bearing-cap-12mm-13mm-16mm-and-connecting-rod-cap.1322217/ 

The snippet from 1980 manual in the link above just tighten to the torque spec, but we just have a snippet, not the whole manual. The 1988 manual says tighten to the (considerably higher) torque spec in two passes, then add 90 degrees, and replace any bolt that doesn't meet the torque spec, or if the bolt breaks or deforms. The 1988 onward engines have different part number for the related parts. So.......um, maybe?

DarkMonohue
DarkMonohue GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
11/4/25 7:28 p.m.

I see.

If your engine calls for the same main cap bolts as the 1980 3B, it stands to reason that you would use the same torque values and procedure. An assumption, but a reasonably (!) safe one.

Somewhere I have an old (obviously...) T-series engine manual. Had to have that when I built my 2T-G.

ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter)
ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
11/6/25 12:31 a.m.

Number 2 and 3 also show damage to the bearing shells, but not catastrophic, and one of the two crank journals is right on the edge of “did my nail catch, or did I imagine that because I can see a line?” The other journal is smooth.

This had me slightly bummed until a co-worker reframed things for me today. He asked: “Did you experience rod knock?”

“No.”

“Okay, any loss of oil pressure?”

“No.”

”Okay, are the crank journals scored?”

”Hmmm, I don’t think so…maybe on one if you feel it just right, but not certain?”

”Okay…so just imagine for a moment you’re in a field in a remote part of the third world…where this thing was designed to be…and you’re fixing it. Can you polish the crank, put in new shells, and do it a notch or two better than a typical field repair given that you are in your garage?”

”Sure.”

”Okay. So, what’s the issue?” 

🤣😅

My co-worker is probably right. I ordered bearings, and refreshed my knowledge of the latest shoestring and fine wet/dry sandpaper polishing techniques with the crank in-situ. I’m hopeful the Cruiser will be rolling again soon!

1 ... 4 5 6

You'll need to log in to post.

Our Preferred Partners
JaKnbLAqlTniBrfpo58vkOJ1rjeWWtmZhwsuETJNuVau3PMI0GXZbOlkB4wvw2GG