FrankenFerrari - V12 Ferrari 308

Pete. (l33t FS) said:

This is a lot of why back in the day a lot of cars had negative caster, too.

I've never even heard of negative caster????  Learn something new everyday I guess.

In other news now that I've written off the season and spent my time messing with steering and push buttons....the head gastests are ready to ship.

The head gaskets have shipped so a BIG thank you to drhex donating them!

The PS units are ready to ship so they should be here in 2-3 weeks

Our old net set died and Lana got this set on facebook for $100

I nearly heat stroked myself this weekend setting the posts in the clay and rock that passes for dirt here in PA plus $150 in other materials....so not really sure it was a bargain but my son is thrilled to have it for his birthday party this coming weekend, just need to remove the dangerously unsafe swing set now.

I've picked up tasks at work that have required evening calls all this week and next making it harder to justify turning on the AC out in the shop and doing stuff but I'm free tonight and through the weekend.  I still don't have a real plan for how I'm going to pressure test the intake ports beyond I'll need to fix the tig torch to fix the leaks when I find them.  And the pistons need to come out so I can fix the valve pockets.  I want to inspect all the bearings, I'm pretty sure I left a few in I shouldn't have last time.  So plenty to do while I make a port repair plan.

If you're looking for input about testing the ports for leaks: I've had great luck making temporary gaskets with the tacky butyl and/or grey rubber cords used for windows. You could put the cord around each combustion chamber, leaving the coolant chambers open, and set the head on something flat. You wouldn't be able to run the full pressure the cylinder sees like this, but the weight of the head alone should provide enough force so you can test at a pressure that will let you know if there are holes in the ports

In reply to average_bear :

So years ago I had water leaks and rigged this up to find them...so much as you're thinking. I air pressured it and found and welded the holes. 

The problem now is oil from the cam galley.....and I'm probably thinking WAY to much.  I guess I just install the cam cover and make a plate to seal the timing chain end with a fitting for the leak down tester.  Then I need to seal the valve guides so I just ordered some 5mm plugs, they will be here Sunday so I'll target having everything else ready by then

Look what arrived....

Just a refreshh, I had this custom made because i wasn't finding anything I really liked spec and/or price wise. Its similar to the AVT units on amazon, same small case, but a different motor and controller....yes I hotrodded a power steering unit ()  and WAY cheaper.

The ATV units are mostly 360W and 36N-m (26.5ft-lb) and this is 400W but 46Nm (34ft-lb) max constant assist. I put a torque wrench on the ferrari, with the quick steering and sitting parked in the garage its is 30Nm so this will easily deliver 1 finger steering in that car

I powered it up to make sure it turned on and for whatever reason I decided to clamp a 10" vise grip on and try and hold it while I turned the u-joint with my other hand. I could hold 2.5A (30W- it goes to 400W)...and my poor brain was not doing well processing what it was seeing/feeling with the u-joint hand so easily over powering the vise grip hand. 



The controller is also different (from a car, higher power) and programmed differently. It accepts a PWM output (the little red wire) and varies the output 0-100% based on the frequency of the PWM input. you get 100% if its not connected, but it can connect directly of most after market ECUs or a buddy of mine is designing a little adapter that will have Reluctor, Hall, CAN inputs and probably a simple phone app so you should be able to connect to any wheel speed or eclectic speedo or ECU and set whatever % assist you want at whatever speed or just set it to a constant that feels good.

With the adapter I can sell them for $399 (unless import rules change) if anyone is interested,  more powerful and much cheaper than the ATV units mostly because this is based on higher volume automotive parts and since its for a car, not waterproof.  Double what a prius unit costs used, but this is more compact, lighter (unit, controller, harness about 10.8lb) and the assist level completely adjustable so but than prius in some respects. ping me if you're interested,  it will take probably 2 months to make the adapter box, I'll probably order 10 for ebay after that to see if there is any insterest plus I want one for the Zyphstaer

In reply to mke :

What are the configurations of input and output shaft? Splines? Three-quarter inch DD? Something else?

They look like 11/16- 36 spline, pretty sure its same as prius.  In the box are a pair of 11/16-36 to 5/8-36 u-joints.  I didn't realize they were included so now trying to see it I can get something more useful to hotrod/racer types (like 3/4-36) included or remove them and reduce the price a little.  

I took a look at the steering.....and decide I needed some processing time because even thought the new EPA unit is generally smaller, its a bit longer along the steering shaft so there is really no way I'm putting a quickener...well....unless I attack the steering column which I kind of don't want to do.....but I frikin love the quick steering so I really don't want to give that up.....but I don't need another big or expensive project.....processing time.

I've now got myself about 3/4 talked into just building a steering rack......

I set the steering stuff aside and got back to the engine. I cleaned up the decks which seemed to take forever then checked the liner protrusion.  I got 2-4 which should seal fine.....but I set them to 5+ last time so that kind of confirms the deck is not really strong enough to support the liners and things are moving.....but they are high enough to seal :)

I got the bottom end torn down

Piston vise on the mill (Thanks Wade!)

pocket set up.

first cut done

24 cuts done

I had targeted 050/080"  but measured 045/080".  The new target is 100/100 so I cut the intakes 055" deeper.  I try and take care of the exhausts tomorrow with a 020" cut.

I don't know anything about anything but are the thin bits of piston on the edge of the pockets going to be stable with heat and pressure from combustion?

In reply to mfennell :

That is an excellent question and one I do not know the answer to.  I've never seen/read anything beyond sand the sharp edges which I will do once I finish machining....but how aggressive I need to be radiusing I'm just not sure....1/16" maybe?  that would mean nothing thinned than 1/8" remains....1/32?  I'll see what it looks like when I start sand I guess.

Forgot to show the angle blocks, they make setting the valve angle pretty easy.

Then same as yesterday, set up the cut

do it 24 times.

The thin spots will hold up fine. Anything that can break those off will take the ringlands off with it. 

In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :

well that's not an appealing thought   ........its getting pretty thin near the ring land.

You don't have enough boost to cause a problem. 

In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :

that sounds like a challenge 

Well.....I almost bought a motorcycle.  I took my son to a track day with his and it physically pained me to stand and watch.  When we got home he was talking about racing in the spring and that was too much so I started looking at what it would cost to join him and class rules and such.  There is a special class for 40 and up...and I just turned 60    Luckily the one I was eying we couldn't agree on price so back to the ferrari.

I have the bottom end all over the bench so I decided to finish that so its off the bench before the heads.  I think I mentioned I don't love the way the bearings look so I ordered new....at least I think I did, I haven't seen the bill yet but sometimes they wait until its packed to get the shipping.  Remember I cleaned out the crank last time but I didn't polish the journals at all so and for whatever reason the bottom side so all the rod journals was a little rough but it mics fine so a quick light polish so I know there is nothing rough and new bearings.

Then rings...they are quite a bit more expensive then they were in 2019.  Last time I talked myself into the totalseal with a gapless 2nd because the bores are about 0.002 over so the ring gaps are like 0.018 when they should be 0.015.  Last time they were $36/set, now they are $59/set.  JE rings that were I think $25 are now $38 but I have 2 sets so $380 for 10 more instead of $708 for the gapless it is.  I was worried about low rpm before but now I know there is no issue so I figured no need to spend more. 

I need to see what stones I have for my hone to deglaze the cylinder and get everyht5ing clean while I wait.

In reply to mke :

When you said $38/set I thought that’s pretty cheap, then reading further I realized you’re talking about a piston set. Yeah, $400 for rings is a bit spendy.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Yeah...and those were the cheap ones.  I suspect the issue rhymes with tariffs   

The rings are here but the bearings delayed.....I never got a bill so I called and was told they were out of a couple shells, more are due this coming week but he couldn't bill me yet because he has no idea what they'll cost (tariffs).

Today I decide to do important work.  I started getting the car ready to take pics so I can apply of an antique plate so I won't need inspections any more.  The car was a mess so wide it down, it need top on and windows up for what ever reason....hmmm..,..my new push button ignition comes on then right off....ahh, dead .  Charger on....0 current draw?  but the ignition comes on and window go up but the drives side doesn't go down???  forget it, tomorrow problem.  

Load test the battery, 0V so its shot.  but strange.  it show fully charged no load, 0 volt with load.....something broken inside I guess?  Oh! I see amazon has a 16lb Lithium group 24 that should work for $296....prices have really come down!  They call it group 24 but it measures 10.23 x 6.77 x 7.99 which is small for a G24 and almost exactly group34 size which is what I have now but I guess if meets the G24 output specs so higher output with 1100 CCA vs 800 I currently have.  There is a G47 that is a little smaller, 11lbs but only 600CCA which is maybe on the low side for my setup so i decide to not risk it.  That will be 20ish lbs weight saving.

I'm a little worried about the charging system, it says 14.2-14.6 is ideal but I'm pretty sure mine is 13.8 but I think there are higher voltage options...need to look.  I guess it needs a special charger for the shop to, $50 for that.  

Dropped off the paperwork to get an antique registration with in PA means its registered for life and no more inspections.  And also requested a custom plate ....just in case it ever runs