In reply to DougNuts :
I did, its a 5500cfm fan with a variable speed control, so at full tilt, it can fully exchange the air in the building in just shy of 9 minutes. Not knock-your-socks-off rapid, but I'm hoping good enough. I'll report back.
In reply to DougNuts :
I did, its a 5500cfm fan with a variable speed control, so at full tilt, it can fully exchange the air in the building in just shy of 9 minutes. Not knock-your-socks-off rapid, but I'm hoping good enough. I'll report back.
Gas line, trench, and concrete pads are prepped for the propane tank to be delivered and installed next week.
Hoping the local shade-tree plumber shows up this weekend and can finish plumbing the bathroom.
Really feels like everything's coming to a crescendo here at the end. Lot of stuff scheduled for the next two weeks, and then I should be kind of down to the DIY finishing work.
In reply to DougNuts :
On the fan, I'm becoming irritated with the louvers. Primarily that they are thin aluminum and tend to rattle quite a lot if there is a breeze through an open door or window. Not sure spring-loaded is the right answer, or very carefully weighted to limit flapping in anything short of a strong crosswind, or using some foam pads to keep them from clattering closed.
Brilliant ideas from the peanut gallery are appreciated.
We had a noisy-louvered vent fan in the brewery when we first built out. The real answer is to put the louvers on an interlocked circuit with the fan to servo-control the open/shut (at least up here in New England when we need all of the insulation in the cold months), but before we settled on that solution, a couple small tabs of lead tape at the bottoms of the louvers fixed 99.9% of our buffeting issues.
Okay, math and warranty voiding time.
The rails on the lift are to be 120" apart. The flanges on the bottom of each post mount to the concrete with 3/4" wedge anchors. The holes closest to centerline of the completed lift assembly are about 6.75" inboard from the inner face of the rail, so the corresponding holes on the opposite post should be 106.5" apart (120" - 6.75" - 6.75").
The manufacturer says anchors should not be placed within 6" of an expansion joint or relief cut or crack in the concrete.
The concrete guys missed the memo, or engineering missed the memo, or I failed to adequately outline the contents of the memo, because the relief cuts pass (thankfully) between the piers the posts mount to, but are right at 96" apart.
Add 6" spacing off the relief cuts for either post means the narrowest I can put my narrowest holes is 108". And the holes have to be 106.5" apart.
Moving both posts one way or another means a 30" lateral move, which means both posts would be mounted off their piers, it off-centers the lift from the door, and (in one direction) makes the lift uncomfortably cozy with the wall. I don't think that's the answer.
I used to be in engineering. I am familiar with safety factors and the methods for covering the company's ass in the event of stupid operator/installer. I suspect the real answer is "don't try to install this piece of equipment on tired, broken concrete".
Everything else about my concrete and piers is over-spec'ed. The relief cuts are just a couple inches too far apart. And the relief cuts are shallower than normal, too, because the heating guys set the tubes on top of the rebar and the concrete guys were worried they were going to accidentally cut the tubes if they cut at their normal depth.
I think the answer is to split the difference and send it. The four mounting holes closest to centerline will each be about 3/4" closer to a relief cut in the concrete than the manufacturer says is acceptable, everything else will be at or well beyond spec.
Discuss.
Well, the boss has decided he can't afford to have me on furlough, so I get to go back to work in the morning. Before I complain too much, I'm glad they decided they need me back rather than that they don't need me at all. Would love to have got more done around the place, but so it goes.
Supply-side plumbing is all done now, finished the hose bib this afternoon. Sink and toilet and 2.5 gallon electric water heater are plumbed. Need to get some fittings to wrap up the vent, and water will be completely finished.
Propane is plumbed inside and outside the building, tank filled up and leak checked.
No movement on electric. Calling the provider company tomorrow to see when they're upgrading my pole. Further trenching/wiring is on hold until then.
Drain tile for the two downspouts on the lean-to side is set and works great.
Have started moving things in. Wish I could wait until I had electricity in the building, but other timelines mean I have to start emptying other buildings. Starting with the most in-the-way and don't-have-any-other-good-place items, and trying my best not to get slippery sloped.
Power company says they're waiting on supplies; unknown arrival date and they won't schedule my upgrade until they have the necessary supplies in-hand.
Meanwhile, the electrician is short on work next week and this should be a pretty quick job, so I'm going to dig trench this weekend and see if we can have the trenches refilled before I have to go back to work Tuesday.
Time permitting, I may snag the last few supplies I need to finish the sink drain and vent, which would complete the plumbing.
Painfully close now.
Rained all damn weekend, starting a few hours after I posted last. Between that and solo parenting, no digging occurred. Forecast looks like maybe we get a chance to dig over the weekend.
Made good progress on clearing out the garage, though. Wife needs it mostly clear in a few weeks, so I've used the weather delay to push hard on triaging several generations of accumulated farm/home/equipment maintenance detritus and consolidating to like-items before finding a good home for the results.
Also, first paying work arrives this week. Good friend of my wife is having intermittent problems with the third function hydraulics on her Kubota front loader, wants me to give it a shot. Paying work wasn't really the goal of this project, but if it falls in my lap...
Power company showed up today, apparently. Nobody was home, which was mostly fine. I say mostly because 1. changing the meter kicked the slow-cooker beef roast off sometime mid-morning, so it is now fast-cooker beef roast, and 2. they did 2 of the 3 things I asked (upgrade the service ✔️ remove the obscene pay-by-the-month yard light ✔️ remove the soon-to-be irrelevant overhead line ❌️). Guess somebody could have called the customer, if those instructions weren't clear enough. Oh well.
Electrician dropped off materials. Big roll of heavy wire and a couple breaker boxes.
Spent the better part of the day figuring my circuits, what size wire and breakers I will need, about what it will cost me, and what I *need* to do with the little bit of money I have available short term. Outlets for garage door openers, bathroom and office area, and interior lights are the short list, I think.
I started digging this morning with the skidsteer, but it got leaky and I got cold. Called one of my also-currently-unpaid coworkers and he brought his excavator over. Took him less than two hours, with a twenty minute drive either end. He wanted $350, but settled on $300 and a trio of E36 M3ty old Goldwings I've been trying to get him to take off my hands for months.
I paid him $500, and he didn't count it, and he'll be back tomorrow to get the bikes. Take care of the junior non-coms, they'll take care of you.
Electrician comes in the morning. Will probably ditch work early and scrape dirt back into the ditch in the afternoon so we can get back to having a functional driveway again.
Heating system gets turned on sometime late next week. Once that's making hot water, I'll use the fire department's FLIR to positively locate the hot water tubes in the floor, and then I can drill the holes for mounting the lift without fear of hitting a heating loop.
Oh, and the plumber came back. Only thing I hadn't finished was the sink drain and the vent, so he did most of that (he didn't have the studer valve, so I get to figure that out). Wanted more money than I really wanted to pay him, but at some point, if the guy does good work and you don't want to learn to do it/don't have time to do it, pay him. If he doesn't do good work...
I paid him most of what he asked for, and only short because all the cash I had was about 96% of what he wanted. Kind of wish I'd used him as a consultant and done it myself instead, I think in several respects I would have been less haphazard than he was. But it works, and it is done, and it is pretty much all getting covered up with drywall or paneling at some point.
Cable laid and about 80% buried. First of two breaker boxes in the first of two buildings is hung. Nothing hooked up yet. They'll be back tomorrow.
They are a long way out to get here, I overheard them talking about "okay, its 3:30 now, the two of us have a 2 hour drive and you have a 2.5 hour drive, when does everybody want to wrap up here for the day?"
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Electrician is back. Sounds like they'll be done today.
EXCEPT that the utility company "upgraded" the service at our meter from an older 200 amp meter to a newer, breakered, 5-wire 200 amp meter. Good news is it hasn't cost me anything yet. Waiting for a call back on actually upgrading to 320 amp, which WILL cost me something.
Regardless, electrician is going to have to come back to hook up service once the new new meter is installed.
I'm just griping to gripe. We'll be there soon, just frustrated about silly delays.
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